Aeschbach WW2 Pattern German Wehrmacht & Luftwaffe Dienstuhr (Army/Airforce Service Watch) with 24 Jewel Hand Wound Swiss Made Sellita SW216 Movement and Box Sapphire Crystal - Needs Attention
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Aeschbach WW2 Pattern German Wehrmacht & Luftwaffe Dienstuhr (Army/Airforce Service Watch) with 24 Jewel Hand Wound Swiss Made Sellita SW216 Movement and Box Sapphire Crystal - Needs Attention
We acquire these watches from various defense auctions Horological and military disposal sales.
Model:
AESC/DUH2CH
Condition: Brand new with plastic protectors still on the crystal etc
Fault: The watch came from a clearance sale and needs attention to the movement - we suspect it has been overwound.
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FACTORY DESCRIPTION
Aeschbach WWII Pattern Military Watch – SKU: AESC/DUH2CH
Description
This classic hand-wound WWII-pattern Aeschbach military watch features a Swiss 24-jewel Sellita SW216 movement and a small subsidiary dial for the seconds. Designed after the watches issued to the German Wehrmacht and Luftwaffe during World War II, this model stays remarkably true to the original Aeschbach designs from that era.
While vintage Aeschbach WWII watches are now rare and highly sought after, this watch is almost indistinguishable from the original models. However, it has been significantly upgraded for modern durability, including: ✔ 100m water resistance ✔ Shatter & scratch-resistant sapphire box crystal (visually identical to the original plexiglass) ✔ Upgraded 24-jewel hand-wound movement (compared to the original 15-jewel version)
This watch retains its authentic historical appearance while integrating discreet modern improvements, making it a reliable everyday timepiece.
Historical Background
During WWII, the Wehrmacht, Kriegsmarine, and Luftwaffe issued watches from numerous Swiss and German manufacturers, including Aeschbach, which was founded in 1923 and remains active today.
Unlike the British Dirty Dozen, collecting German military watches is considerably more challenging due to the sheer number of manufacturers—over 100 brands produced timepieces for the German military.
A group of military watch enthusiasts has compiled an extensive list of these manufacturers, which can be found here: ➡ WWII German Military Watches List If you have any additional information, they would likely appreciate contributions to complete the historical records.
Specifications
Case Diameter: 36.5mm (excluding crown), 39mm (including crown)
Many customers ask why sapphire crystal is superior to standard mineral glass. Here’s why:
✅ Unmatched Durability – Sapphire is highly scratch & impact-resistant ✅ Shatter Resistance – Much stronger than mineral glass, ideal for military, security forces, and outdoor professionals (over 70% of our customer base) ✅ Heat-Treated for Strength – Reduces internal stresses, preventing weak points ✅ Anti-Reflective Coating – Improves visibility in various lighting conditions ✅ Used in Premium Devices – Sapphire crystal is now used in high-end watches and even the latest iPhones
💡 Did You Know? Over 90% of cracked watch crystals in accidents involve mineral glass, even when hardened. Sapphire crystal significantly reduces the risk of breakage, making it a must-have for durability under tough conditions.
Swiss Sellita SW216 Movement – Winding Guidelines
The Sellita SW216 movement requires approximately 20 to 25 turns of the crown from an empty state to reach full power. Most manual-wind watches require 30 to 40 turns, so this movement requires significantly fewer.
Important Notes on Winding:
🔹 Full Power Reserve: Approximately 42 hours 🔹 Daily Use: Many users find that 15 to 17 turns per day is sufficient if winding every 24 hours 🔹 Caution with Screw-Down Crown: When securing the locking crown, it adds 3 to 4 extra turns, which must be factored in to avoid over-winding 🔹 Avoid Over-Winding:
Overwinding occurs when the watch is wound beyond its designated stopping point, risking damage to the mainspring or winding mechanism.
Unlike automatic watches, manual-wind movements can be overwound, so it’s crucial to wind only as needed.
Regular wearers will quickly develop a feel for their ideal winding routine within the first few days of use.
